Orchid Care Blog

The 'prima donna' of the genus, Cattleya...

Here are more orchid-growing tips (continued from my last post)...

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The 'prima donna' of the genus, Cattleya Warscewiczii or gigas, requires special treatment in resting; withholding water is not sufficient.

If not properly handled it will put on new bulbs and leaves and refuse to bloom.

Stern measures will be required to shock the plant into flowering.

Cattleya gigas is one orchid that really demands neglect.

When the new growth and roots start, the plant should be well watered until the new bulb is completely made up-the flower sheath will appear at the same time, but without buds.

The plant should then be placed in a very sunny spot and water withheld.

Occasional overhead spray will meet all its needs during the winter months.

As root activity begins anew and buds are formed in the sheath, watering may be gradually resumed and the plant moved to a warmer, shadier spot until after flowering.

A slight rest may take place again after flowering before the new growth starts, and water should be used sparingly at such a time.

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I'll post more orchid care tips soon!

- Sara

But the most heartening sight to the...

Here are more orchid-growing tips (continued from my last post)...

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But the most heartening sight to the orchid grower is the new roots of a plant awakening from rest.

New roots, of a bright, clear, translucent green with a rosy glow, can be described only as jewel-tipped.

When plants are resting and the roots are inactive, it is only natural that they should require little or no water.

They usually need more air, more sun, and less heat.

In addition to these general rules, each of the genera, according to their native climate, has certain special needs.

The genus Cattleya is moderate in its demands for heat, air, and moisture at all times.

It does not require complete rest.

Withholding water from the pot for a short time after repotting or after flowering will suffice, but the bulbs should not be allowed to become dry to the point of shriveling.

Humidity in the air and overhead spray will help keep them plump and firm.

They should be well watered in the pot and then allowed to dry out until the pot feels light when weighed in the hand.

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I'll post more orchid care tips soon!

- Sara

Most orchids cannot be induced to break...

Here are more orchid-growing tips (continued from my last post)...

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Most orchids cannot be induced to break this dormancy until they are ready, but others, if conditions encouraging growth surround them when they normally rest, will begin premature growth.

If this happens, the flowers will not have a chance to mature and the plant will refuse to flower for a season.

For a weak plant this may be a good idea, but usually the grower expects a yearly flowering.

Other plants, notably deciduous Dendrobes, will throw new plantlets if watered during the rest period.

If a treatment inadvertently breaks dormancy, the amateur will be startled to find his collection increased by small additions, when what he expected was blooms.

Watching the roots is one means of judging a plant's needs.

Old roots that are still performing their special functions will be white and tough, and very hard to break.

Dead roots turn black and wet or dirty-brown and dry according to the cause of death.

If the plant needs to be removed from badly decomposed material and repotted, the roots may be green and slimy from fungus.

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I'll post more orchid care tips soon!

- Sara

During such times these plants shrivel and...

Here are more orchid-growing tips (continued from my last post)...

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During such times these plants shrivel and dry, giving no sign of life.

In the native habitat of many orchids these extremely dry seasons will be followed by torrential rains, during which the plant awakens and puts forth new growth that will culminate in bloom.

It is during the time of dormancy that collectors gather and ship orchids with the least danger of shock and damage.

Many a plant has died en route, having been shipped after growth has re-commenced, when the fresh young roots and tender bulbs are easily broken or rotted.

If shipped when completely dormant and dry, they will comfortably survive the long overseas journey and the fumigation, required on arrival.

By watching his plants, the grower will learn to recognize their needs.

When the plant feels the need of rest, usually during the winter months, active growth ceases and the plant 'stands still.

' There are no new roots and buds seem to remain endlessly in the sheath.

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I'll post more orchid care tips soon!

- Sara

Pots, not too large, are used as...

Here are more orchid-growing tips (continued from my last post)...

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Pots, not too large, are used as containers.

Extreme care should be taken that repotted Miltonias do not receive water until new roots form.

When the first orchids were imported from their native jungles many years ago, thousands of plants died from being transferred to unnatural conditions under glass with the aerial roots crammed into unsuitable media.

Gradually but surely painful experience has evolved the modern treatment that is now so successful that hothouse-grown plants often far surpass jungle plants of the same species in beauty, and in number and size of blooms.

WITH the end of the flowering season for most plants and with potting under control, the grower finds next that all orchids need rest-some going into such deep rest or dormancy that they appear dead.

In a state of nature this rest is provided by the change of seasons.

It will be found that those plants requiring a long spell of complete rest in the greenhouse come from regions where long periods of hot wind occur.

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I'll post more orchid care tips soon!

- Sara

As Odontoglossum roots are very fine, the...

Here are more orchid-growing tips (continued from my last post)...

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As Odontoglossum roots are very fine, the plants should be soaked before repotting so that the old material will fall away without injuring them.

About two thirds of the pot should be filled with crock to insure good drainage.

Odontoglossums should be potted firmly but not tight.

Water should be withheld until new roots form, and then frequent damping will see the plant through in good shape.

This genus does not react well to disturbance of the roots during hot weather, so September is the ideal time for repotting; growths will then be about an inch high and the plant will have a chance to re-establish itself before winter.

Repotting is also possible in March as new roots will have a chance to form before hot weather sets in. Miltonias may be repotted at the same time as Odontoglossums.

Straight Osmunda may be used.

Another medium consists of equal amounts of peat and moss, with good drainage.

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I'll post more orchid care tips soon!

- Sara

One grower recommends a mix of almost...

Here are more orchid-growing tips (continued from my last post)...

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One grower recommends a mix of almost liquid, mud-like leaf mold to be poured around the roots and kept wet.

Osmunda, preferably partially decomposed, is effective.

A satisfactory formula for the green-leaved types is three parts loam, one part of Osmunda chopped fine, and one part sphagnum.

The mottled-leaved varieties do better with a formula of one part loam to two parts of Osmunda and two parts of sphagnum.

Odontoglossums also require a rich, moist compost; they thrive in leaf mold and heavy soil.

Osmunda tends to be too dry.

Old Osmunda, the residue from previous repotting of other orchids, can be used in repotting Odontoglossums, and a bit of sand may be added.

Polypodium mixed with finely chopped Osmunda is also used.

A more elaborate mix consists of sphagnum, fine-cut fiber, a little sharp silver sand, and a few decayed oak leaves.

These plants do exceedingly well under oak trees in localities where they can be grown outdoors.

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I'll post more orchid care tips soon!

- Sara

They should be potted firmly, although not...

Here are more orchid-growing tips (continued from my last post)...

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They should be potted firmly, although not so tightly as Cattleyas, and they may be held fast with a stake.

Cypripediums have needs very similar to the Cymbidiums, but require more water and not such firm potting.

Cypripedium roots are brittle and delicate and should be handled gently to avoid injury.

If the plant is soaked for several hours before being removed from the pot, the compost may easily be separated from the roots.

Cypripediums can be readily divided during repotting, as they practically fall into separate plants, but, lacking pseudo-bulbs, they take up little room and there is not much need for separation.

Pots of four to six inches will be most convenient to handle.

The plant should be well centered since new growth may break from any side.

This genus will do well with the composts used for Cymbidiums.

The native habitat of the Cypripedium is usually swampy, so they need a rich, wet compost.

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I'll post more orchid care tips soon!

- Sara

Old, clean Osmunda, collected when un-potting Cattleyas...

Here are more orchid-growing tips (continued from my last post)...

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Old, clean Osmunda, collected when un-potting Cattleyas and other species, is excellent for this purpose.

A formula highly recommended by a successful grower is three parts of leaf mold (oak and sycamore), one part disintegrated granite, one-half part fibrous peat, and one-half part turf and sand.

One grower's wife has been heard to complain that her husband tears up the front lawn to get potting material for his Cymbidiums.

The use of fertilizer is a controversial matter, but it is probably good for these heavy feeders.

Addition of leaf mold is always recommended.

Cymbidiums need moisture at the roots at all times and correspondingly good drainage.

Since these plants grow enormous bulbs, a large pot is necessary.

The time for repotting is late spring when new growths are just beginning.

Backbulbs may be removed without disturbing the plant and they will start new plants from the dormant eyes.

When potted the backbulbs should be centered in the pot since there is no way of predicting the direction in which the eye will break.

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I'll post more orchid care tips soon!

- Sara

Rather than repot, some growers prefer to...

Here are more orchid-growing tips (continued from my last post)...

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Rather than repot, some growers prefer to add fresh medium at the front of the plant.

From time to time freshly sifted Osmunda may be sprinkled over the top and watered in. Here again Sanders recommends a compost of slightly less than three parts Osmunda and a little over one part sphagnum.

Oncidiums, like Dendrobiums, do well in confinement.

Their containers, which may be baskets or rafts, should be just large enough and, as a rule, hung in the light.

Osmunda is a satisfactory medium.

When Oncidiums are potted in a basket there should be a great deal of crock and not much compost.

Sphagnum may be added to the medium.

The genus requires a lot of water and consequently adequate drainage.

A book might well be devoted solely to Cymbidiums.

Every grower has his favorite mix of compost and these splendid plants do gratifyingly well in all mixes.

They are terrestrials and so do well in straight soil, although they seem to do best on a rich, well-drained medium.

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I'll post more orchid care tips soon!

- Sara